Indonesian Muhlisin

Country:  Indonesia
Region:  East Java
Washing station / Mill:  Pokmas Walida Co-Operative
Varietal(s):  Arabica Lini S795 & Kartika
Process:  Anaerobic Natural
Altitude:  1200-1400 M (ASL)
Owner:  Various small holders

Tasting profile:  Cherry Cola and Marzipan
Brewing:  Fruity on filter / bold marzipan notes in milk-based drinks

 Situated along the slopes of the Argopuro Volcano, is a region in East Java known for its coffee production thanks to the rich volcanic soil and high elevations. When coffee was first cultivated in Indonesia, it was common for Dutch colonists to plant low-quality Robusta in large estates. Producer and cooperative leader, Pak Muhlisin, founded the Pokmas Walida Cooperative in 2014, to gather producers in the area and spread awareness about new processing methods to improve quality.

Muhlisin was born and raised in the Tlogosari village, nestled at the foothills of the Argopuro volcano and studied agricultural science and farming techniques at the Brawijaya University in the city of Malang. His passion for agriculture grew as he studied, pushing him to attend IPB (Institut Pertanian Bogor) / Bogor Farming Institute to undertake a more intensive training in coffee production. Muhlisin then returned home to begin growing his own coffee in 2012 with the methods and tools he acquired during his education. However, coffee prices were low at the time, forcing other producers to rely on other crops. Pak, on the other hand, sought to obtain higher prices for the producers in this region. Over time, Muhlisin created relationships with various roasters in Jakarta, willing to pay higher prices for coffee from this pristine region of East Java.  In addition to coffee, producers in this area will also grow tobacco, tea, sengon, and fruit trees such as mango and guava whilst also raising cattle to diversify income. Today, there are roughly 200 producers associated with the cooperative with farms ranging in size from 0.5 hectare to 0.75 hectare.

During the harvest, each producer will carefully handpick the cherries and transport to the collection station adjacent to the Pokmas Walida wet mill. Here, the cherries are submerged in water to remove any floaters to maintain quality. Once sorted, the coffee is then placed into large tanks of water and covered for 72 hours to initiate fermentation. This breaks down the exterior mucilage helping to create a unique tasting profile. When fermentation is complete, the cherries are evenly dispersed on covered raised beds to dry for 15 days and moved to tarped patios to dry for another 10 days. The cherries are regularly moved to prevent mould growth. Once the ideal water content level is reached, the coffee is ready for hulling. The dried cherries are moved via truck to the dry mill, 50 miles away, to be hulled and set to rest prior to export.

A main initiative for this cooperative and for Muhlisin is to expand education to community members. There are goals in place to construct and improve the K-12 school system for the locals. 20% of coffee sales from the cooperative are set aside for this project to cultivate a future of educated coffee producers. Currently, he works with his uncle to run the school and ensure the children have a comfortable place to learn. Thanks to the previous years of selling coffee, he has been able to renovate various parts of the school, including a new coat of paint on the external walls. Plans for dormitories are in the works. Something special and unique about Muhlisin is that he is quite a young coffee producer, and he has introduced some uncommon processing methods to this region of Indonesia. He has inspired other producers to follow suit, and his coffee is sought after throughout Indonesia by local roasters.